With a little customization, IKEA pieces can look like bespoke, built-in cabinetry. Adding trim/molding, hardware, and a beautiful accent wall, make this mudroom a space you look forward to coming home to!
Below is how I took a blank wall and turned it into a functional and stylish mudroom space using IKEA pieces. *This post contains affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through my links. Thank you for your support!*
Shopping List (measurements are approximate)
Mudroom Cabinetry:
2x 19″ IKEA Pax units, 79″ height 23″ depth
2x Bergsbo doors, 19″x79″
2x 3-packs Komplement hinges
6x Komplement shelves 19″x23″
1x Komplement clothing rod 19″
1x Besta frame 47″x15″x15″
2x Hanviken drawer fronts, 15″x23″
2x Besta drawer frames, 23″x9″x15″
2x Besta soft close drawer runners
4x 2×4 studs
2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
2-1/2″ & 3″ construction screws
Baseboard to match existing
4’x8′ sheet of tempered hardware (I asked my local hardware store employee to cut this sheet down into 6″ strips)
3x 1x2x8 primed pine
1x 1x3x8 primed pine
paint: Sherwin Williams Sea Mariner (accent wall) & Pure White (baseboards)
I started by assembling both PAX units and the Besta Unit according to the provided instructions. Then, I built bases out of 2×4’s for each unit to stand on. The height of my bases was determined by the height of my baseboard and the location of a pipe access (obstruction) that was coming out of my wall. I ended up building the bases for each PAX from 2×4’s on their sides, so its height was 1.5″ and assembled them using pocket holes. The Besta had to be taller to accommodate the obstruction, so I started by building the base with 2’x4’s the tall way (3.5″ in height), then layered 2 2×4’s the short way for a total of 6.5″ (3.5+1.5+1.5). Then, I attached the Pax units to the wall using their bracket system, and attached the cabinets to each other and to the base using cabinet screws. I covered the Besta 2×4 base with 1/8″ hardboard (aka eucaboard), and wrapped the baseboard around the whole unit and adjoining walls, filling the holes and caulking at the end.
While I waited for the wood filler and caulk to dry, I started on the chevron accent wall. I drew a line down the middle for reference, and used a cardboard cut out as a template. I don’t think I used my tape measure once for this part! Each 6″ strip’s end was cut at 45 degrees, and attached to the wall using a few brad nails. This material is lightweight so I wasn’t concerned with hitting studs. Before placing the next strip, I painted the edge so that I wouldn’t have to worry or struggle to paint in between strips once they were all installed. I used a paint stick as a spacer…very official! My strips were not a perfect fit along the bottom or sides, but I wasn’t worried, because I planned to frame it out to hide those gaps! Then, I wood filled all the holes, and painted the frame out of 1×2’s before installing, that way I wouldn’t have to worry about getting paint on the white Pax/Besta units.
After sanding the wood filler, I gave it the first coat of paint with a foam roller. While the first coat dried, I installed the drawer and door hardware. Using a jig takes a majority of the guess work out, though I’ve learned to always double check before drilling the holes! I also installed a clothing rod and shelf in one closet, and 5 shelves in the other.
After the first coat was dry, I applied the 2nd coat, and also painted the baseboards white. When all of the paint was dry, it was time for the last part…the hooks! My plan was to use wall anchors, but after hitting a few hiccups, I ended up installing a 1×3 ledger board across the accent wall, and into two studs. By doing so, I was able to install the 4 hooks without worrying about hitting studs or using anchors.
The very last thing I did was fill the holes on the ledger board, and touch up the paint!
